Retracing Our Steps - Naoshima, Kyoto, Nara and Osaka.

I would have thought that after ten years, we'd want to explore all new areas of Japan.  And, I spent months looking for those places we might want to go. North to Hokkaido or to Nagano or even more of Tokyo.  But, what I found was that I longed to retrace our steps and see what we'd already seen on a deeper level (and without a toddler).  I wanted to show Carlos where he'd been as a baby and all of the funny things he did in each place.  I wanted Rafi to finally have some Japan stories of his own. I also loved where we'd been.

Kyoto, Nara, Osaka and Naoshima now have such special places in our hearts.   Kyoto is the most famous, like a Japanese Santa Fe with historic architecturally striking neighborhoods and packed with tourists.  We saw the beautiful Golden Temple with its gardens, the famous shopping arcades, and the winding Ninenzaka streets.  We went to Arashiyama where there is a bamboo forest and little monkeys everywhere.  And then, Osaka.

I love Osaka.  It is a beautiful city with bright lights and delicious food.  Apparently, people from Osaka are funny.  Hilarious, actually.  I have no idea, but like everywhere we've experienced in Japan they are kind and gentle. 

In Osaka, we went to the Tejin Matusuri, a parade with hundreds of years of history. I can't lie... if I never see another Japanese Matsuri, it will be too soon.  It is group after group in yukata/kimonos banging on drums. Truly.  We bought tickets to this special seating and it came with ridiculous commentary people (like Hoda and Kathie Lee, but a man and an older woman in Yukata (traditional robes with obi belt/sash) speaking Japanese and cracking those clearly hilarious Osaka jokes) and while the view was great, we wanted to sneak out within a few minutes.  We have been to one amazing Matsuri in Kyoto ten years ago in May, but the rest are kind of missable.    We keep chasing the high of the Kyoto one, only to find that the rest of them are a bit sucky.

And finally, we went back to magical Naoshima, the art island..  Naoshima is an old fishing village island that was transformed to be a modern artwork.  While people who farm and mine salt still live there, it is a magnificent art experience.  A museum by architect Tadao Ando that is underground, but only uses natural light.   The museum has four Monets in one quiet and bright white room where you can't speak and you have to take off your shoes, and a light room by James Turrell, and amazing, jaw dropping art everywhere.   Six different artists were given old houses to make into art, and they were all just heart stopping.

Naoshima makes modern art accessible.  

Gion fence

Trees - photo by Carlos

DELICIOUS Shabu Shabu (which I guess means back and forth or at least that is what the waitress said as she dipped the meat into the broth... shabu... shabu in a singsongy voice)

Hilarious translation.

Exquisite door.

Baby monkey at Arashiyama Monkey Park.

For the record, mommy is a greedy monkey and doesn't let baby have any food if she is around.

Could use some sunscreen. 

Beautiful lantern festival in Kyoto. 

Nara deer gang.

World's largest wood structure - Todaji Temple

Giant buddha inside. Breathtaking.

The Nara Deer.  David thinks they were less aggressive this time.    That makes no sense, but he is cute.

Ready for the onsen!  David had to take them with him to the men's side and I got bliss by myself.

Painting tiles for the Todaji Temple roof in Nara.

No clue who this is, but he got a hug.

My favorite hotel in the world, quite possibly. Benesse House.

View from our hotel restaurant.

Yayoi Kusama pumpkin.  I am getting a giant soft sculpture sent to me of this.  I'm not even sure I want it, but 10 years ago David nixed me buying it and I've been pining for it in theory ever since.  

Art house in Nagoya

Art carved into a random wood wall.